| 1: Keep a log book of all changes you make to
each chassis and body. Mark the chassis with a number system that makes
sense to you so you can track the changes you make to each chassis. This
can be crucial to ensuring you know whether the changes have been positive
or not. Also it is good to know what parts you have used in each chassis,
especially if you plan on competing in races, each place has their own
set of rules, and you can be disqualified for not following the rules.
Just forgetting you left hot magnets, or silver brushes in a chassis could
ruin your victory, when a simple record of each chassis could have ensured
you used a chassis that met the rules.
2: Oil your cars properly. Too much or too little
oil can prevent the car from running at it's optimum speed. I use the following
methods. I am mostly running tjets, but I'm sure this can apply to most
slot cars.
a) I use a heavy oil (like old red tjet
oil) on the bottom of the chassis where the armature post sits in the chassis.
Do not apply too much oil here, it's easy to get oil on the brushes, oily
brushes will degrade the performance of the car A LOT.
b) I use a combination of a light oil like
X2C and a heavy oil like Red Tjet oil, on the gears, I am pretty generous
with the oil in this area, this helps quiet the chassis and reduces gear
friction.
c) I use a very light (x2c) oil where the
axles go through the chassis, where the crown gear rubs against the chassis
and where the rear gear post meets the chassis.
If you've oiled the gears and the pinion and the
axles and your car still squeals a bit, it's most likely the crown gear
spot where it rubs against the chassis...
3: Make sure you have round tires! Many tires
are not very round at all. Carefully pick tires that don't have flat spots
on them. If your racing class allows, true the tires. I use the spin-sand
method. I put the tires (even if they are fronts) on the rear hubs and
hold the car just above a piece of fine sand paper. Then accelerate so
the tires spin and lower them slowly to the sandpaper, this will round
the tires out pretty evenly. Make sure your car is level or you'll have
one tire a different diameter than another. Using a tire gauge or micrometer
you should ensure the two tires are as close to exactly the same size as
possible. Round front and rear tires help a lot in both acceleration and
cornering.
4) Pickup shoe tension can cause hopping or stuttering.
Hopping is especially notable when you are accelerating. The car will literally
lift and hop as you floor it. (first check that your front tires are round)
Generally the spring tension is too tight if this occurs. I take a small
pair of diagonal cutters (dikes) and start by cutting off a half of a ring
at a time. Each spring can be different and you want to have them both
exactly the same. One way to tell if the springs are different is to carefully
eye them and count the number of rings on each spring, then also note the
height to ensure they are also stretched the same. Another way to tell
is if you note a ridge developing in one of your pickup shoes, try cutting
a half or full ring off of that spring and replacing the pickup shoe, or
grinding it flat again with a dremel, and you should notice that with even
properly adjusted pickup shoe springs, the car will run smoother, handle
better, not hop and not wear the pickup shoes as much. The car rides on
these more than anything, so this is probably one of the best ways to adjust
your car's handles. Now, the other problem can be caused by cutting too
much off of a spring, or just having a very compressed spring. If the car
stutters, the spring tension may be to weak. Try taking the pickup springs
and stretching them out a bit. If you can't get that to work, try replacing
the pickup shoe springs with a brand new pair, with brand new pair, you
may end up needing to start the cutting again if it hops of course...
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